Happy Lama Travels eksklusive grupperejser i Turkmenistan foregår i små internationale grupper med lokal engelsktalende rejseleder. Derfor er rejsebeskrivelserne på engelsk.

En lokal rejseleder kender sit land bedre end en dansk rejseleder. Det er desuden vores erfaring at en lokal rejseleder giver dig et bedre indblik i, hvordan livet leves i Turkmenistan.

Passer rejsedatoerne dig ikke eller vil du selv have maksimal indflydelse på dit rejseprogram – Kontakt os hvis du ønsker et tilbud på en individuel rejse i Turkmenistan.

asien@happylamatravel.com

On the edge of the Silk Road and with a rich history stretching back millennia, Turkmenistan is a land that few have knowledge of. Dominated by forbidding desert and once the abode of fierce tribesmen renowned for their slave trading, the country today is characterised by sharp contrasts, from the futuristic building projects of the capital to remote communities living in tents among the sands. This two week trip is a comprehensive journey through one of the most mysterious places in Asia. Starting in Ashgabat we combine both ancient and modern, visiting the monuments built by the previous ruler Turkmenbashi as well as the Parthian fortress of Nisa, before leaving the city behind and embarking on our journey to the mountains. We stay as guests of a local community in Nohur, reputed to be descended from the armies of Alexander, then travel through the remarkable canyon landscapes of Yangikala to the pilgrimage site of Gozli Ata, where we spend the night in the company of local pilgrims. From here we head to the Caspian Sea before flying to Dashoguz and visiting the UNESCO listed site of Konye-Urgench, evidence of former glories of this fascinating region. Perhaps the most exciting part of our trip is a three day excursion into the Karakum desert, camping at a flaming gas crater and stopping in isolated settlements to meet people who rarely see tourists. After a brief stop in Turkmenabat we then drive to the Kugitang Mountains, with dinosaur footprints, caves and rare species to discover. On our way back to Ashgabat we visit Merv, a vast site made up of the remains of five different cities, testament to the wide array of cultures that have made their mark here. Turkmenistan is one of the most exciting countries in Central Asia and this pioneering trip takes you to all corners of the country, doing more than just scratching the surface but allowing you a detailed insight into its culture and history. We think this is one of our most exciting trips – join us and we’re sure you will agree.

Fitness**** | Adventure**** | Culture**** | History**** | Wildlife*

Arrive in Ashgabat and transfer to the hotel. Depending on your time of arrival, you may have time to explore the city. Overnight at Ak Altyn Hotel or similar.

Ashgabat
Ashgabat was a fairly insignificant town before the arrival of the Russians, who chose it as an administrative centre and began to develop it in the late 19th century. In 1948 it was hit by a powerful earthquake which all but destroyed the city, and the city had to be completely rebuilt. Although reconstruction occurred during the Soviet era, it is Ashgabat’s development since independence in 1991 which has given the city its very unusual character. A pet project of the then dictator Niyazov, Ashgabat was the focus of his ‘nation building’ efforts and as such is home to a bewildering array of monuments, most of them faced with white marble tiles that give the city an almost glittering effect. There are few cities in the world that are so linked to one man, and Ashgabat is a striking and unusual place, at odds with other Central Asian cities but fascinating in its own right.

Spend the day exploring Ashgabat. Visit the Sunday Bazaar, Independence Park and Neutrality Arch before heading to the National Museum and then the ruins of the ancient Parthian fortress at Nisa, a little way outside the city. Ashgabat is a city of grandiose monuments giving an insight into the nation building efforts that took place after the end of the Soviet Union, and a good place to start getting to grips with Turkmenistan. Overnight at Ak Altyn Hotel or similar. (BLD)

Nisa
Located on a natural high platform at the foothills of the Kopetdag mountains, the fortress of Nissa was constructed by early Parthian rulers who took over control of the area from the Seleucids in the middle of the 3rd century BC. Under Parthian rule the fortified territory was protected by 43 defense towers, and was called Mitridatkert (literally: fortress of king Mitridat). Hellenistic influence is clearly visible in the building architecture, sculptures and other interior decorations found at the site. A circular temple-hall where remains of a stone altar were found indicate the location for Zoroastrian rituals. The most magnificent artefacts found to date at what is believed to have been the treasury is a large collection of ivory rhytons, which can be seen at the National Museum in Ashgabat. Nisa has been enlisted as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2007.

After breakfast visit a private horse stables. We then head off to the Kopetdag Mountains. We stop first at the Turkmenbashi Mosque in Kipchak and then continue to Geok Tepe, site of a famous battle between Russian and Turkmen forces during the conquest of Central Asia. Moving on we stop at the underground lake of Kowata. After lunch we continue to the village of Nohur our base for the night. Overnight camping. (BLD)

Geok Tepe
Geok Tepe town hosts the modern Saparmurat Haji mosque, a history museum and the ruins of the fortress, where in 1881 a battle between the forces of the Russian tsar and Turkmens of the Teke tribe took place. After the fall of Geok Tepe Turkmenistan was subjugated to the Russian Tsarist Empire. In memory of the victims of that battle a mosque was constructed in 1995 and topped with a blue dome (Geok Gumbez), rising to a height of 42 m and flanked by four minarets each 63 m tall.

Nohur
Nohur is home to a small community that lives in the high valleys of the Kopetdag Mountains. Nohur local culture has been preserved due to its isolation from the rest of Turkmenistan, and its distinctive features can be seen in the style of its architecture. Nohur is also a centre of keteni (Turkmen silk dress material) weaving, and this art is practiced by virtually every household even today. Next to its cultural interest, a visit to Nohur also offers opportunities to enjoy magnificent mountain landscapes, canyons, and highlands. The inhabitants of Nohur believe they are descended from the armies of Alexander the Great.

Leave Nohur behind and drive through walnut and pomegranate groves to Magtymguly. Our route takes us alongside the Iranian border so we can expect to meet several checkpoints along the way. We stop at the ‘Moon Mountains’ a series of rather striking barren hills, before continuing on to Balkanabat. Arrive early evening and check in to the hotel. Overnight Nebitchi Hotel or similar. (BLD)

After a visit to the local bazaar to stock up on supplies, we drive to the Balkan Mountains and the canyons of Yangikala, home to some of the best scenery in Turkmenistan. We explore by foot and take a picnic lunch among the canyons. When the sun sets we drive to the pilgrimage site of Gozli Ata. Overnight local pilgrim house (multi-share accommodation). (BLD)

Yangikala
Impressive limestone formations rise up from the desert sands at Yangikala, with views of the Karabogaz Gulf in the distance. These limestone cliffs are the remains of massive coral reefs from the pre-historical Parathetys Sea. Different soil layers are clearly visible: at the lower part, the hills are orange-red colored, whereas towards the top they become bright white. This surreal landscape is impressive at any time of day but sunset and sunrise offer particularly spectacular views. The area is reachable only by 4wd vehicles, crossing a highland region where camels, sheep and horses graze, and friendly shepherds will greet you with their Alabai shepherd dogs.

Gozli Ata
The mausoleum of Gozli Ata is one of the holiest pilgrim sites in Turkmenistan. The mausoleum, located on a low platform against the backdrop of stunning pink and red limestone rock formations, is now part of a larger Salor tribal graveyard. Gozli Ata (literally: all-seeing father) was a famous 12th century Sufi teacher who was said to have the capacity to see inside peoples’ soul and who was killed by the Mongolian armies.

Drive first to the pilgrimage site of Kemal Ata with its interesting volcanic landscape, where we explore the site and take lunch. From here we continue to the Caspian Sea, stopping at the salt lakes of Mollagara if time permits. We end our day in the seaside resort of Awaza, a sharp contrast to our experiences of the last few days. Overnight Hotel Seyrana or similar. (BLD)

Caspian Sea
The Caspian Sea is the largest enclosed body of water on Earth by area, variously classed as the world’s largest lake or a full-fledged sea. Like the Black Sea, it is a remnant of the ancient Parathetys Sea. It became landlocked about 5.5 million years ago due to a tectonic uplift and a fall in sea levels. Over 130 rivers provide water to the Caspian, with the Volga and Ural Rivers being the largest. It has a salinity of approximately 1.2 %, about one third of most seawater. The only outflow of water is through condensation. The water level is currently measured to be 28 metres below sea level. Several salt marshes can be found along the coastline, such as the Karabogaz Gulf and lakes such as at Mollagara. Numerous kinds of sturgeons, trout, white fish and the Caspian seal call the Caspian home, and millions of birds winter at protected areas along its shores, including thousands of flamingoes and pelicans.

We head first to nearby Turkmenbashi where we visit the port and the fish market. After an early lunch we fly to Dashoguz in the north of the country. We spend our time here visiting the bazaar to stock up on supplies for our desert crossing. Overnight Hotel Dashoguz or similar. (BLD)

Drive to the site of Konye-Urgench, an ancient capital of the land of Khorezm with beautiful mausoleums. After visiting its key sites we travel on the highway through the Karakum Desert to Darwaza, a burning gas crater where flames literally leap from the ground. We set up camp here and watch the sun go down, the crater lighting up the night sky with its fires. Overnight camping. (BLD)

Konye-Urgench
Konye-Urgench was the capital of the ancient land of Khorezm in the 10th century, but has not had the easiest time since then. Falling first to the Seljuks and then falling under the control of their successors the Khorezmshahs, it enjoyed a brief period as the centre of Islamic Central Asia, replete with numerous beautiful mosques and medressas. This was not to last long however. In 1221 it was attacked by the armies of Genghis Khan, who besieged the city for six months before destroying it, leaving little but ashes and bodies. ‘Konye-Urgench became the abode of the jackal and the haunt of the owl and the kite’, wrote one local historian. Having rebuilt itself it was then sacked by Timur (Tamerlane), adding to its woes. Fortunately, a few architectural monuments survived this tragedy, notably the impressive mausoleums of former sultans as well as arched gates and fortresses which stand as testament to the former glories of this remote corner of Asia.

Darwaza
While drilling in 1971 geologists accidentally found an underground cavern filled with natural gas. The ground beneath the drilling rig collapsed, leaving a large hole with a diameter of about 50-100 metres. To avoid poisonous gas discharge, it was decided to burn the gas. Geologists had hoped the fire would go out in a few days but it has been burning ever since. Locals have named the cavern The Door to Hell, and the sight of the crater at night indeed gives a somewhat spooky feel. The crater now has a diameter of approximately 60 m, and a depth of 20 m. Hundreds of fires burn inside the crater, some of them with flames up to 10-15m high.

We head deeper into the Karakum Desert, across rough tracks and sand dunes, until we reach the small settlement of Damla. We stop here for lunch and explore the village, with superb opportunities to meet and interact with people who rarely get to see western visitors. Later we continue our desert drive through to Ak Molla, where we camp for the night. Overnight camping. (BLD)

Damla
Damla is located in a low basin, surrounded by hills with huge medicinal flowers, from which the inhabitants make a medicinal syrup. Damla is virtually cut off from the outside world: no electricity or telephone lines, gas or water pipes reach this region, and people will be overwhelmingly pleased to see visitors. A visit to this settlement gives you a good glimpse into desert life. While having a cup of tea, you can observe traditional living conditions in yurts and watch local household practices, such as the baking of Turkmen flat bread in a clay oven fired by saxaul desert wood, and the milking of the numerous camels. Or watch the village women making Turkmen felt mats or knitting traditional colourful socks and amulets.

A full day of driving. We stop at the archaeological site of Gonur Depe, dating back to the Bronze Age. Around 55 hectares in size, the site comprises of the remains of a fortified citadel with walls and towers clearly visible. From here continue to Mary for the night, where a hotel room and shower awaits. Overnight Hotel Mary or similar. (BLD)

Visit the ancient site of Merv, the most important in Turkmenistan and dating back 2500 years with an array of old mosques and citadels. After exploring Merv we head to Turkmenabat for the night. Overnight Jeyhun Hotel or similar. (BLD)

Merv
The site of Merv spreads over one hundred square kilometres and holds the remains of a number of ancient cities spread over centuries. At various times it has been home to Zoroastrians, Buddhists, Christians and Moslems and has been controlled by a number of dynasties including the Timurids. Merv’s attractions are wide and varied – mausoleums of former rulers and Sufi scholars, old Seleucid citadels, traditional ‘ice houses’ and the remains of ancient walls. Merv was comprehensively sacked by the Mongols in the 13th century but rose to prominence again under the Timurids two hundred years later. With so many influences, Merv is a microcosm of Central Asian history and a delight to explore.

Drive out of Turkmenabat, passing ruins of old Silk Road settlements and stopping at Astana Baba with its interesting mausoleums dating back to the 11th century. From here we follow the Amu Darya River, crossing it by pontoon bridge, and continue to the Kugitang Mountains. We reach the village of Koyten, in a lush green valley, by early evening. Overnight basic lodge. (BLD)

We spend today exploring the surrounding area, discovering dinosaur footprints, hiking to the Umbar Dere waterfall and walking to a cave and hot springs. This area is part of the Kugitang Nature Reserve, and several rare species are found here including the Bukhara urial, a mountain sheep. Overnight basic lodge. (BLD)

Kugitang Nature Reserve
Kugitang Nature Reserve is located in the south-western slopes of the Koytendag mountains and lies at elevations of 900 to 3139m above sea level, a peak which it reaches at Ayrybaba (the highest peak of Turkmenistan). There are a substantial number of water bodies: karst lakes, freshwater springs and hydrogen sulphate wells. Koytendag is famous for its unique caves and other geological features as well as its archa forest and species of rare plants and animals such as the blind cave loach which inhabits underground lakes in the caves. Notable elements of the flora include Juniperus trees (archa), tulips, and almond, jujube and pistachio forests. Kugitang is also famous for its representing the main periods of the planet’s development, with rocks of the Precambrian, Paleozoic, Mesozoic, and Cainozoic Eras rich with ancient fossils of molluscs, brachiopods, and dinosaurs – including a dinosaur footprint trail.

Drive back to Turkmenabat, this time following the northern banks of the Amu Darya. Here the landscape is different and much more arid, with little agriculture and few settlements, in contrast to the southern banks. Arrive in Turkmenabat in the afternoon and from here fly back to Ashgabat for your final night in Turkmenistan. Overnight Ak Altyn Hotel or similar. (BLD)

Transfer to the airport for your flight home. (B)